Which is better conductor of electricity aluminium or copper and why?

Copper! It's like the Usain Bolt of electrical conductivity among common metals. Copper is a much better conductor than aluminum, with a conductivity of around 5.96×10^7 S/m compared to aluminum's 3.5×10^7 S/m. 

Why is copper such a great conductor? It's all about those free electrons! Copper has one valence electron that's just itching to move around, creating a strong repelling reaction in other electrons. This means it takes very little resistance for an electric current to flow through copper.

Aluminum, on the other hand, is like the tortoise in this race. It's a decent conductor, but it just can't keep up with copper. Aluminum has three valence electrons, which makes it harder for an electric current to flow smoothly.

So, if you're looking for a metal that's a whiz at conducting electricity, copper is your go-to metal. Just remember, with great conductivity comes great cost - copper is more expensive than aluminum. But hey, you get what you pay for, right?

Why neutral cable size is half of phase cable?

The neutral wire, often seen as the unsung hero of the electrical world, is indeed half the size of the phase cable. Why, you ask? It's all about balance.

In a perfectly balanced system (which, let's face it, is as rare as a unicorn sighting), the neutral wire carries no current. But in the real world, where unicorns are as mythical as a perfectly balanced electrical system, the neutral wire does carry some current due to the imbalance between the phases. This imbalance is the reason the neutral wire is allowed to be smaller.

Think of it like a seesaw. If you have two perfectly equal weights on either side, the seesaw stays level, and the fulcrum (the neutral wire in our electrical analogy) doesn't move. But if one side is heavier, the fulcrum has to work a bit harder. The neutral wire is like that fulcrum, only working harder when the phases are out of balance.

So, there you have it, the neutral cable size is half of the phase cable size because it's designed to handle the imbalance current between phase A and phase B. It's not that it's less important, it's just that it's designed for a different role in the electrical symphony.

شرکت برشنا برای وارد کردن ۱۵۰ هزار میتر برق با یک‌ شرکت چینی قرارداد بسته است

شرکت برق‌رسانی برشنا اعلام کرد که برای وارد کردن ۱۵۰ هزار میتر برق با یک‌ شرکت چینی قرارداد بسته است.

برشنا امروز(دوشنبه، ۱۴ جوزا) در ایکس X نوشته است که این قرارداد میان ملا محمدحنیف حمزه، رییس اجرایی برشنا و نماینده شرکت چینی «شینزین کلو» امضا شد.

طبق خبرنامه، برشنا ۱۵۰ هزار میتر برق را در بدل ۲.۷ میلیون دالر از این شرکت چینی سازنده‌ی میتر وارد می‌کند.

قابل یادآوری است که فقط چند شهر مهم افغانستان برق دولتی دارند که در این شهرها نیز شهروندان همواره از کمبود و نامنظم بودن برق شکایت دارند.

اما در این میان، میترها که میزان مصرف برق را نشان می‌دهد، همیشه میان مصرف‌کنندگان و برشنا جنجال‌آفرین است. مشتریان برشنا شکایت دارند که به خاطر غیرمعیاری بودن میترها مجبور می‌شوند هزینه برق را بیش از مصرف واقعی‌شان بپردازند.

These warning signs aren't loud, but they are serious. Here are quiet clues that your home may have a major electrical problem.

Alright, let's dive into the silent but deadly world of electrical problems in your home. Here are some warning signs that might not be as loud as a rock concert, but they're certainly not to be ignored:

Flickering Lights: If your lights are flickering more than a candle in a breeze, it could be a sign of loose electrical connections. It's not a ghost trying to communicate, it's your house trying to tell you something's wrong.

Hot Outlets: If your outlets are hotter than a fresh cup of coffee, you might have an issue. Outlets should be room temperature, not a mini sauna.

Burning Smell: A burning smell is never a good sign. If you can't pinpoint the source, it could be your wiring saying, "Help, I'm on fire!"

Sparking Outlets: If you see sparks when plugging in a device, it's not a mini fireworks show. It's a sign of a potentially dangerous electrical issue.

Frequent Circuit Breaker Trips: If your circuit breaker is tripping more often than a clumsy waiter, it's time to call an electrician.

Buzzing Sounds: If your electrical system is buzzing like a bee on caffeine, it's not a new form of home entertainment. It's a sign of a problem.

Damaged or Outdated Wiring: If your wiring is older than your grandparents or looks like it's been chewed on by a rodent, it's time for an upgrade.

Dimming or Flickering Lights: If your lights are dimming or flickering when you turn on an appliance, it could be a sign of an overloaded circuit.

Loose or Disconnected Plugs: If your plugs are falling out of outlets like a toddler trying to fit a square peg in a round hole, it's a sign of loose wiring.

Electric Shocks: If you're getting shocked by your home's electrical system, it's not a new form of therapy. It's a serious problem.

Remember, these are just warning signs. If you notice any of these issues, it's best to call a professional electrician to diagnose and fix the problem. After all, it's better to be safe than to have your house turn into a real-life game of "The Floor is Lava."

What is a Bukhholz relay? Which equipment is protected by it?

The Buchholz relay is like a guardian angel for oil-immersed transformers, protecting them from various faults and ensuring they don't turn into expensive paperweights. This relay, named after its inventor Max Buchholz (no relation to the famous German composer, as far as I know), was first introduced in 1921. It's a mechanical fault detector that senses abnormalities in the transformer, such as short circuits, overheating, and oil leaks.

Now, imagine a transformer as a giant, oil-filled donut (not the tasty kind, unfortunately). The Buchholz relay is placed in the oil piping between the transformer's main tank and the conservator tank, which is like the donut's hole. When a fault occurs inside the transformer, it produces gas, and this gas accumulates in the Buchholz relay. The relay then triggers an alarm or trips the circuit breaker, depending on the severity of the fault.

So, the equipment protected by the Buchholz relay is primarily oil-immersed transformers, which are commonly used in power distribution and transmission systems. These transformers are essential for converting high-voltage electricity into a form that can be safely used in homes and businesses.

In summary, the Buchholz relay is like a vigilant watchdog, sniffing out potential transformer troubles and keeping the lights on for all of us. And who wouldn't want a guardian angel for their electrical equipment?

Why air conditioner rated in Tons not in KW or KVA?

Air conditioners are rated in tons because, believe it or not, it has nothing to do with their weight or how many elephants they can cool down. Instead, it's all about the amount of heat they can remove from a space in one hour.

To be precise, one ton of air conditioning is equivalent to removing 12,000 British Thermal Units (BTUs) of heat per hour. This measurement dates back to the days when cooling was provided by large quantities of ice blocks. A ton of cooling capacity referred to the amount of heat required to melt one ton of ice in 24 hours.

Now, you might be wondering, "Why not just use kilowatts (kW) or kilovolt-amperes (kVA) like everything else?" Well, my friend, the HVAC world decided to stick with tons because it's a more straightforward way to measure the cooling capacity of an air conditioner. It's like using a yardstick instead of a metric ruler – both can measure length, but one is more familiar to some folks.

So, the next time you're shopping for an air conditioner and see "2-ton" or "3-ton" on the box, just remember that it's not the weight of the unit or its ability to cool down a herd of elephants. It's all about how much heat it can remove from your cozy little human habitat.

How to Clean a Clogged Condensate Drain

Cleaning a clogged condensate drain can be a simple process, but it varies depending on the type of drain. 

Here's a general guide for both internal and external condensate drains:

1. Internal Condensate Drain: This is typically found in HVAC systems or high-efficiency furnaces. 

a. Locate the drain pan and the drain line. The drain pan is usually located beneath the indoor air handler unit, and the drain line is a PVC pipe that leads away from the pan.

b. Remove any visible debris or buildup from the drain pan. You can use a wet/dry vacuum for this.

c. Use a funnel to pour a mixture of warm water and a few drops of dish soap into the drain line. This will help to break up any clogs.

d. After pouring the mixture, flush the drain line with clean water to clear out any remaining residue.

e. If the clog persists, you may need to use a plumber's snake or a wet/dry vacuum to remove it.

2. External Condensate Drain: This is typically found in air conditioning units.

a. Locate the drain line and the drain pan. The drain line is usually a PVC pipe that leads away from the AC unit, and the drain pan is where the water from the unit collects.

b. Remove any visible debris or buildup from the drain pan.

c. Use a wet/dry vacuum to clear out any clogs in the drain line.

d. If the clog persists, you may need to use a plumber's snake or a wet/dry vacuum to remove it.

After cleaning the drain, it's a good idea to periodically check it to ensure it stays clear. You can do this by pouring a mixture of warm water and a few drops of dish soap into the drain line and checking for any slow drainage or backups.